Resoling shoes can be a cost-effective way to extend the life of high-quality footwear, but not all shoes are suitable for the process. One key factor is the type of sole construction used in the shoe’s design.
Shoes with Cup Soles Can’t Be Resoled
Shoes that use a cup sole typically can’t be resoled. The rubber cup outsole is permanently bonded to the leather uppers using cement, and removing it usually destroys the leather, making replacement impossible. Sneakers and casual shoes are commonly constructed using cup soles, which is faster, easier, and less expensive than other methods.
Goodyear Welted and Blake Stitched Shoes Can Be Resoled
In contrast, shoes with a Goodyear welt or Blake stitch construction can often be resoled. With Goodyear welted shoes, a piece of leather (the welt) is applied to the perimeter of the shoe where the outsole meets the upper, and two separate stitches are used to attach the welt to the outsole and uppers. This makes Goodyear welted shoes the easiest to resole.
Blake stitched shoes can also be resoled, but the process is more complex as the uppers are stitched directly to the outsoles, with the stitches visible on the insides and bottoms of the shoes. A cobbler will need a specialized Blake stitch machine to resole these types of shoes.