Understanding Shoe Construction and Repairability
Not all shoes are created equal when it comes to repairability. The ability to resole or repair a shoe largely depends on its construction method. High-quality shoes, particularly those with Goodyear welt or Blake stitch construction, are often repairable and can be resoled multiple times.
Goodyear welted shoes feature a strip of leather (the welt) that’s stitched to both the upper and the sole, making them relatively easy to resole. Blake stitched shoes have the upper directly attached to the sole, which can also be replaced, though it requires specialized equipment.
Shoes That Can’t Be Resoled
Many modern shoes, especially sneakers and casual footwear, use construction methods that make resoling impossible or impractical:
• Cup sole shoes: The rubber outsole is permanently bonded to the upper, making separation without damage unlikely.
• Cemented construction: While some cemented shoes can be resoled, the process is often not cost-effective.
• Molded EVA soles: Common in athletic shoes, these integrated soles can’t be replaced.
When Resoling Makes Sense (and When It Doesn’t)
Even if a shoe can technically be resoled, it’s not always the best choice:
• Quality matters: High-end shoes are often worth resoling due to their superior materials and craftsmanship.
• Cost comparison: If resoling costs more than half the price of new shoes, replacement might be more economical.
• Upper condition: Resoling isn’t worthwhile if the upper is severely damaged or worn out.
The Resoling Process
For shoes that can be resoled, the process typically involves:
Removing the old sole
Cleaning and preparing the welt or attachment area
Attaching a new sole using appropriate construction methods
Finishing and polishing the shoe
Benefits of Resoling
When appropriate, resoling offers several advantages:
• Extended lifespan of favorite shoes
• More environmentally friendly than buying new
• Maintains the comfort of well-broken-in uppers
• Can be more cost-effective for high-quality footwear
Finding a Skilled Cobbler
If you’re considering resoling, it’s crucial to find a reputable cobbler:
• Look for cobblers experienced with your shoe’s construction method
• Ask about their process and materials
• Check reviews or seek recommendations from high-end shoe retailers
Remember, not all shoes are worth repairing, but for well-made footwear, resoling can breathe new life into your favorite pairs and be a smart investment in the long run.