If you have a favorite jacket with a broken zipper, you may be wondering if it’s possible to replace it. The good news is that replacing a zipper on a jacket is a doable task, even if you’re not an experienced sewer. With the right tools and a bit of patience, you can breathe new life into your beloved outerwear. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk you through the process of replacing a zipper on a jacket, from selecting the right replacement to sewing it in place.
Assessing the Damage and Selecting a Replacement Zipper
Before you begin the zipper replacement process, it’s important to assess the extent of the damage to your jacket’s zipper. If the zipper pull is broken or the zipper teeth are damaged, you’ll need to replace the entire zipper. However, if the issue is with the zipper slider, you may be able to fix it by replacing just the slider.
When selecting a replacement zipper, it’s crucial to choose one that is the same size and type as your old zipper. The size of the zipper is usually indicated on the back of the slider or can be determined by measuring the width of the zipper teeth. You’ll also need to decide on the type of zipper, such as coil, metal, or molded tooth, and whether you want a separating or non-separating zipper.
If you can’t find a zipper that matches the exact length of your old one, you can opt for one that’s slightly shorter or longer. If you choose a longer zipper, you’ll need to shorten it at the top.
Preparing the Jacket and Removing the Old Zipper
Once you have your replacement zipper, it’s time to prepare your jacket for the new zipper. If your jacket is lined or made of stretchy fabric, you may want to consider sewing the new zipper on without unraveling the seams. This can be a bit trickier, but it can save you a lot of time and effort.
To remove the old zipper, start by removing the top stop on the side of the zipper chain where the zipper pull is located. Depending on the type of zipper, the top stop may be made of metal or plastic. Use pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to carefully pry open the metal stops, or wire cutters to cut off the plastic stops.
Once the top stop is removed, you can slide the zipper pull off the chain. Then, use a seam ripper to carefully unravel the seams around the bottom end of the zipper until you can pull it out. Cut off the bottom end of the zipper, leaving no teeth on the remaining part of the old zipper tape.
Sewing in the New Zipper
With the old zipper removed, it’s time to sew in the new one. If you’re sewing the zipper without unraveling the seams, you’ll need to create fabric strips to use as facings. These strips should be about 6-8 cm wide and 5 cm longer than the new zipper.
Place one fabric strip with the right side facing up and measure 2 cm from the end. Mark this spot with a needle or tailor’s chalk. Then, place the new zipper on the fabric strip so that the bottom end with the box part exactly touches the mark. Pin the zipper to the fabric strip along the edge.
If you have a zipper foot for your sewing machine, insert it and keep the needle in the middle position. Set the stitch length as long as possible (5-6) and start sewing at the bottom of the zipper, where it is reinforced with plastic. Sew the zipper on, running the presser foot right along the teeth of the zipper. When you’re still 6-8 inches from the top, stop, open the zipper, and slide it past the needle under the presser foot. Lower the presser foot and finish sewing the zipper, backstitching at the top and bottom.
Repeat this process with the second fabric strip and the other half of the zipper. Then, fold the facing onto the jacket, aligning the edge of the jacket fabric with the seam where you sewed the zipper to the facing. Secure with pins and sew in place.
Finishing Touches and Testing the Zipper
With the new zipper sewn in place, it’s time to add the finishing touches. Trim any excess fabric and thread, and press the seams to ensure a smooth finish. If your jacket has a storm flap or other zipper cover, reattach it to the jacket.
Finally, test the new zipper to ensure it’s working properly. Zip and unzip the jacket a few times to make sure the zipper glides smoothly and doesn’t catch on the fabric. If everything is working as it should, congratulations! You’ve successfully replaced the zipper on your jacket.
Replacing a zipper on a jacket may seem daunting at first, but with the right tools and a bit of practice, it’s a skill that can save you money and extend the life of your favorite outerwear. Whether you’re sewing the new zipper in place or using the “sew-on-top” method, the key is to take your time, follow the instructions carefully, and don’t be afraid to ask for help if you need it.